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Namboothiris
(Male)
Ordinarily,
male Namboothiris wore two plain rounded gold rings or one simple design
ring ("Katta Vecha Mothiram") on the right ring finger. A sacred ring ("Pavithra
Mothiram") was worn after either parent died. Those who did take a fancy
to ornaments, wore a nine-stone (gem) ring and a Thulasi (basil) or Rudraaksham
(Eloeocarpus ganitrus) chain linked with gold or silver. In some aristocratic
families, a few wore a flattened triple gold string around the waist. These
are, however, not universal.
Boys
Infant
boys started wearing jewelry only from the "Choroonu" day (rice-feeding
ceremony), and not earlier. If the first born was a boy, there used to
be a function called "Valayideekkal" (wearing of bangle or bracelet) on
the Choroonu day, when relatives, according to their capacity, put a bangle
on the infant's hands.
Little
boys wore a plain sand-filled gold ring tied around their neck with a white
cotton thread ("Vellacharadu"), a gold or silver (based on financial capacity)
flat 3-strand chain ("Moonnizha Nool") around the waist, and a gold or
silver anklet - "Thala".
On
special days, the plain neck ring was replaced by a "Puli Nakhha Mothiram"
(tiger claw ring) with or without a blue or green gem-stone, a "Kingini"
and "Elass" of gold or silver around the waist above the thread ("Nool").
Those who could afford, used a sand-filled Elass or Thala, which made a
slight sound. Boys from rich families wore a plain ("Ozhukkan") bracelet
as well as an intricately carved ("Roopam Kothi Vala") one, while those
from poorer families wore only the plain one. After around age four, only
Elass, but no Kingini nor Thala were worn.
Gold
and other ornaments were not worn by Upanichunnis, except for a plain ring
tied as a locket around the neck. Relatives attending the Samaavarthanam
ceremony used to give rings to the boy.
Antharjanams
Antharjanams
wore combinations of five kinds of necklaces with centuries old designs,
but worn only during marriages and other festivities.
On
ordinary days, Antharjanams wore only the "Cheruthaali". Cheruthaali was
mainly of two types - Kamazhthi (convex outwards) Cheruthaali for Aadhhyans
and Malathi (convex inwards) Cheruthaali for Aasyans. The 21-Desam women
had an altogether different type [Click
here for Irupathonnu (21) Desam]. Cheruthaali contains 15 lockets alternating
with round "Manis". On the same string at the back will be four "Mookkolakkallu",
a Rudraaksham and an "Ilanji" (Mimosops elengi) seed.
Aadhyans
wore 15 brass bangles or bracelets on the right hand, and 14 on the left.
Aasyans wore bronze bangles. Everyone used to wear "Chittu" (a wide ear
ring) in the enlarged lobes of the ears.
Girls
Girls
wore around the neck a gold ring (filled with sand) as locket, tied with
a white thread and another gold ornament called "Mookkolakkallu" or "Kuttivecha
Mothiram". Brass bangles were also worn. (When rubbed with "Ammippaal"
- the whitish liquid one gets when a grinding stone is used with just water
- they shone like gold!). Gold or silver "Aranjaan" around the waist and
anklet (Thala) were worn.
Even
the well-to-do wore only silver anklets, though gold ones were not uncommon
for the special girl born after several boys! Instead of Thala, some girls
wore "Paadasaram" (made of gold or silver).
After
the ears were pierced ("Kaathu Kuthal"), the holes were slowly enlarged
using "Marakkuradu" (special wooden round piece placed inside the hole),
which was continued to be worn until marriage, when it was replaced by
Chittu.
On
important occasions, "Paalakkaa Mothiram" which was either plain with wax
filling or with gem-stone of green, blue or flame red color, "Pappada Thaali"
with green or red stone at the centre, and "Kuzhalan Mothiram" (tubular
ring) were worn. Both Kuzhalan and Paalakka Mothirams have a "Thalla" (
meaning old woman!) locket in the middle, with 10 - 12 of the others on
either side. Special girls might get to wear a gold Elass or Kingini. Older
girls wore a thick gold/silver waist band, "Aranjaan". Pappada Thaali is
a single piece locket with an ordinary thread for tying. Aadhhyans and
Aasyans wore similar ornaments. The bangles girls wore were similar to
those of Antharjanams.
Brides
Namboothiri
brides even during marriage wore much less ornaments than those of other
communities. As mentioned, the Marakkuradu in the earlobes were at that
time replaced with Chittu. During the auspicious time (Muhoortham) of marriage,
it was her father who tied the "Cheruthaali" - also called "Pozhuthaali"
- around the bride's neck using an ordinary cotton thread. (In most other
communities, the bridegroom tied the Thaali). Usually, another complete
set of Cheruthaali was also worn at that time. Four silver rings were worn
on every finger except the two middle fingers. There would also be a plain
round gold ring on the right ring finger.
Widows
Widows
wore no ornament except the ring. Some continued to wear the Chittu. They
often wore a Thulasi Maala (chain made of basil beads) or a Rudraaksha
Maala strung in gold or silver.
Such
ornaments were not owned by individuals, but were family property and were
shared by all. It was also quite common to borrow from and lend to neighbouring
Namboothiri families in times of need during festivities like marriages.
Article
by : Leela Nambudripad
["Sumangala"], Desamangalam Mana, Kumaranellur - 680590, Vadakkancheri,
Thrissur Dist. Phone: 0488-432690
Reference
: "Ente Smaranakal"
- Vol. 1, Kanippayyur Sankaran Nambudiripad
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