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The
same is true about Antharjanams (Namboothiri women). They never used colourful
and silky clothes and glittering jewelry, unlike most other communities.
The concept of beauty was non-existent or limited to natural and simple
tastes. While most other South Indian Braahmana women drew beautiful designs
("Kolam") daily in front of the house, Antharjanams made a perfunctory
sketch ("Aninju Mathilidal") with rice paste, that too only on special
occasions. Their stress was on the daily rituals and observance of "Vrathams"
(solemn vows).
Namboothiris
(Male)
Until
the early twentieth century, male Namboothiris wrapped around their waist
only a bath towel ("Thorthu"). This was true even among the aristocracy.
When
they had to travel to other villages, they usually hung a second towel
("Randaam Mundu") on their shoulder; the aristocrats wore a long cloth
("Valiya Mundu") instead of the wrap-around towel. It was customary for
most Namboothiris to perform a daily ritual called "Swaadhhyaayam", for
which they had to wear a double towel or cloth ("Vasthram") in a special
way ("Thattudukkal"). This Vasthram was often used later in the day as
the Randaam Mundu. Normally, the Vasthram was changed to Mundu only after
lunch, though many wore it till evening. On special days, they wore a long
cloth with a thin border of gilt or some colour (Kasavu or Eerkkilakkara),
which perhaps, was their best dress. During marriages, bridegrooms wore
a Vasthram of four lengths, and another similar cloth was twisted and worn
("Uthareeyam") in the form of a large Poonool ("Yajnopaveetham" or sacred
thread).
Everyone
from little boys after "Choroonu" ("Annapraasanam" or rice eating ceremony)
to old men, invariably applied ("Kuriyidal") "Bhasmam" (ash), while additionally
"Chandanam" (sandal paste) was also quite common. The daily "Vaisya-homam"
(for married men) require Chandanam application, and after the Homam, the
"Vaisyappottu" - wet application of Bhasmam taken from the Homam fire,
which usually looked greyish.
Boys
(Before "Samaavarthanam")
Boys
wore "Ilakkonakam" (loin cover made of a strip of plantain leaf softened
by heat treatment, over fire) before "Upanayanam", and "Seelakkonakam"
(cloth loin cover) afterwards. "Upanichunnis" (between Upanayanam and Samaavarthanam)
wore Poonool and "Krishnaajinam" across the chest and a white thread (to
support the loin cloth) and "Mekhhala" at the waist. Krishnaajinam is an
inch wide untanned leather from the skin of "Krishna Mrigam" - black buck
(Antelope cervicapra). Mekhhala is a three-strand string worn around the
waist and made of a special kind of grass called "Mekhhalappullu".
Antharjanams
Antharjanams
and older girls wore clothes ("Udukkuka") with border lines, and alike.
There were two types - with "Koluthu", or with "Paappam". The former was
for Aadhhyans on ordinary days, while Aasyans used the latter, also called
"Okkuvechu Udukkuka", or "Njerinju Udukkuka". For Aadhhyans on special
occasions, a gilt-edged cloth (Kasavukara Putava) with the gilt border
made somewhat reddish by washing the border area with water mixed with dried and powdered flower of Plaasu (Butea monosperma) - "Pilaasam"
(a process known as "Poovittalakkal") - and worn in a manner called "Eduthukuthi
Udukkal". Aasyans, even on special occasions, dressed in their normal way.
While performing religious rituals ("Vaidika Karmams"), Aadhhyans wore
a four-length new Vasthram in a manner called "Poovuvechu Udukkal".
Ghosha
(veil) was prevalent in the community. When women had to go out, they used
to cover themselves with "Puthappum Kudayum" (wrap-around shawl and palm
leaf parasol). The shawl was a smooth, nice and broad "Chelapputhappu",
which was also used as a bed-sheet.
The
shape and size of the parasol differed among Sukapuram, Perumanam and Irinjalakuda
Graamams. The first used a large one, the second was larger than ordinary
parasols but with shorter handle (called "Manakkuda"), and the third used
"Kundankuda", a deeper one with a very short handle.
Women
applied sandal paste daily on their forehead in the form of a crescent
or a horizontal line and also a "Chaanthu" dot. Earlier, "Ambilikkuri"
(3-tier crescent) for Aadhhyans and "Varachu Kuri" (three horizontal lines
applied from left to right) for Aasyans were the norm. The latter was also
called "Kolkkuri", perhaps because a stick ("Kol") had to be used to make
it look good. Applying of mascara was also common. Betel chewing - "Moonnum
Koottal", with betel leaf, lime and specially treated arecanut called "Kaliyatakka",
and with no tobacco, ofcourse - was quite common to make lips red. Older
girls followed the same, but did not apply Chaanthu.
Girls
Girls
till the age of 8 or 9 wore just a loin cover (like boys) of heat-treated
palm-leaf. After they come of age ("Uduthu Thudangal"), they dress like
Antharjanams do. Girls do not decorate their hair with jasmine flower,
until after marriage.
Brides
Even
the bride's dress was quite simple. A four-length Mundu was worn ("Muzhuvan
Udukkal") and another was pleated and worn covering the upper part and
the head including the face. Muzhuvan Udukkal was done also during some
ritual offerings ("Nedikkal" with 16 or 7 lamps) and during "Kutiveppu"
(ceremonial receiving of the bride in the groom's house after marriage).
The palms and feet of the bride were decorated with henna ("Mailaanchi"
- Losonia inarmis).
Widows
Widows
wore plain clothes without borders. Application of Chaanthu on the forehead
was taboo, but sandal paste, "Bhasmam" (ash) and "Gopikkatta" (yellow ochre)
are permitted, the latter too only after wetting them.
REMARKS
The
traditional dress described here is not very relevant anymore. Now-a-days,
Namboothiri women cannot be distinguished from others, and even among themselves
- Aadhhyan, Aasyan, etc. - as they all wear the same kind of dress like
churidar, maxi, sari or Mundu and Veshti (set-Mundu). Even widows cannot
be distinguished.
Article
by : Leela Nambudripad ["Sumangala"], Desamangalam Mana, Kumaranellur
- 680590, Vadakkancheri, Thrissur Dist. Phone: 0488-432690
Reference
: "Ente Smaranakal" - Vol. 1, Kanippayyur Sankaran Nambudiripad
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